As promised, here’s the second installment of my India trip travelogue. For the first part, see my previous post, "Becca’s Indian Oddysey: The Genesis," available HERE.
Deposited by a friend at SFO (San Francisco International) midafternoon on Sunday, our check-in was swift and uneventful. Even my huge hard-side suitcase was within the weight limits, although not far off from the max. Besides certain essentials such as coffee, batteries, and international power adapters, I also brought a small folding beach-chair—an ingenious little thing with backpack straps. It saved my life in India during some of the longer meditations, but at the cost of about 7 lbs added weight.
Our airline, British Airways, left San Francisco just about on-time, around 4:30pm, for a gruelling 12 hour flight to London. Surprisingly, the food was edible, and by booking early we were able to reserve seats in one of the rearmost 2-across rows in the 747. Stephanie slept for some of the time, meditated for some. I meditated, too, particularly for a thing we’d committed to doing at midnight on full moons. For this, we did it twice—once when California local time was midnight, and again when we were over Newfoundland, when we calculated that it was actual midnight. Mostly, I just watched movies on the little seatback LCD screens. Saw "Serenity" twice nearly (interrupted 1st time for dinner), the Capote biopic once, as well as the Johnny Cash one. Oh, and Chicken Run. Kept me entertained.
Upon landing at Heathrow, we had to walk forever—just to get to a long queue for security re-clearing. That took close to an hour all by itself. Then a shuttle to another terminal, where we sat and waited… and waited. While we were there, I walked around some just to stay awake and alert. Stephanie managed to find a currency exchange kiosk and got both some British pounds and a bunch of Indian rupies.
We both already had a taste of jet lag. Our bodies thought we’d just stayed up all night, while local time was early afternoon already.
The next leg was rather more crowded, on a smaller plane (777). Here, we got a nice lungful of something Alx had warned us about, some kind of insecticide/disinfectant required by the Indian government. Don’t ask me why, I haven’t a clue, other than it stinks like hell.
Fortunately, we were both able to get some sleep during this flight, another 10 ½ hours into Bangalore. It was now 4:30am local time, and we were both totally travel-zombified. We took well over half an hour to clear Customs and another 15 minutes to collect our luggage. Stephanie was pretty zonked, so I summoned my reserves—especially when it was time to deal with the travel arrangements.
Thanks be to all the divine beings Alx told us exactly what to do upon arriving. We found a porter—making sure first he was wearing an official uniform and badge—to help with the luggage. Then I bulled my way to the pre-paid taxi window, ignoring all the drivers in various states of dress from decidedly informal, all the way up to British Raj era gear (no kidding). Several of them tried to get my attention, offering rides and I just kept shaking my head, wagging my hand and saying, "No, thank you. We are doing pre-paid taxi." We paid the guy at the window, 180 rupies for our destination, and made our way outside.
Even more crowds, all looking to scam, scheme, deal and beg. I couldn’t believe the crowds at that time of the day, it was crazy. I was holding together, but not so well. We found a driver, no problem, but along the way to his minivan we were accosted by a bunch of guys who wanted to "help". Meanwhile, Stephanie saw a nearly naked one-legged beggar and gave him money—but then she got in trouble with all our ‘helpers’ because they wanted tips, and all she had was big bills. Gah…
Finally, I had to tell them all to go away, stop bothering us, there was no more money to be given. So sorry, we didn’t ask for the help in the first place, etc.
Again remembering Alx’s coaching, I made sure to repeat our destination several times to the driver. "It’s the Empire Hotel, near the Museum Inn, on Church Street, near Brigade Road," I would say. "Yes, yes madam," the driver would reply. Apparently, there’s another Empire Hotel, hence the warning.
Alx also told me a magic phrase for getting full attention, but only for a couple seconds. It’s "Do one thing"—then quickly say, in as few words as possible, what you need. Really does seem to work. Even better if you can say it with a bit of an Indian intonation: "Listen, I am telling you: Do one ting. Empire Hotel, Church Street, near Museum Inn and Brigade Road."
The roads were nearly empty at this pre-dawn hour, and our driver drove like everybody does in India—totally without fear and with questionable sanity. Again, we’d been warned about this, so I just tried to sit back and not worry about it.
We arrived at the Empire, actually one of the side entrances, along Church Street, and at first I wasn’t sure we were in the right place. Luckily, we were. A small crowd of red-uniformed bellmen (on duty at 5am?!) took all our bags in. Here’s where our karma paid off: After getting out, Stephanie accidentally left her wallet in the cab. The driver found and returned it to her, right away.
As for getting checked in, if Jonathan Rosen weren’t already married to Alx and, well, not really my type, and I wasn’t already claimed…I’d marry him. He’d set up everything beforehand with the hotel staff. All we had to do was sign in and we were shown to our room. Which was just as well, because I was no longer quite coherent, and Stephanie dead on her feet.
Jonathan, Alx, and our friends Maya and Sage had preceeded us by a couple days, by way of Singapore, and we planned to meet up with them later that morning. Meanwhile, we got to crash for a few hours. After a quick breakfast, around 10am we all met up to embark on our first day of orientation and shopping in Bangalore (or B’lore as many call it), starting with a rickshaw ride over to the Brigade Road shops. Alx and I split off to get coffee and start the process for acquiring a cell phone (for foreigners, one must have some passport-sized photos). Everybody else started their own shopping. Eventually, we reunited and continued.
Same thing on Wednesday and part of Thursday—lots more shopping and getting ready for the trip out to the ashram in Penukonda. I have to say, it was literally invaluable having Alx and Jonathan with us, as they were the best possible ‘native guides’. They knew where everything was, how to work the system—even how to arrange for a pair of very nice vehicles for the 3-hour ride into the countryside.
It was quite a culture shock for me…but I’ll admit that I had a peculiar thought upon arriving in B’lore, that the place seemed oddly familiar. A kind of bemused resignation, also. Something like, "Here again…I really thought I was done with this place…"
But first, more about B’lore: A sometimes jarring mix of old and new. There’s abject poverty right next to affluence, and everything in between. Lame beggars in carts, blind women on sidewalks, and often children putting their fingers to their mouths in a universal gesture of "Hungry"–wherever possible, and where it made sense, we would give them 1, 2, or 5 rupi coins (1 rupi = 2.25 cents). We learned the word "beh-la," which means a firm "no" (I got a hint later that it was slightly rude…but sometimes one does need to be a touch rude with extra pushy vendors). Later on, especially when being confronted by endless street merchants selling hand drums, plastic cobras, huge laminated maps of India and lots of other stuff I didn’t need, I found an eyes-closed head shake accompanied by a shake of my hand in my own universal gesture for "No thank you" to be effective.
It would take some weeks for me to learn the Indian head-waggle. Usually accompanied by a small enigmatic smile, I gathered it more or less means, "Yes perhaps, but I cannot guarantee."
For example, "Can you have these clothes ready by 2pm Thursday, for sure?" "Yes, madam. I shall endeavor." Head-waggle.
It wasn’t just beggars (of which there really weren’t that many, perhaps a couple each block) or wandering sidewalk merchants. Mostly just great crowds of people going here and there with great purpose. It felt a little weird at times, to realize that with my white skin and red/brown hair, I was very distinctly in a small minority.
We did the majority of our shopping on a length of Brigade Road (pronounced ‘Briggid’), or MG Road (Mahatma Ghandi Road). For the clothes though, as well as linens and some other items, we hired some cars and spent an afternoon on Commercial Street.
Both areas, shops and stores would be crammed into every available space. Street level, below and above. Plus people selling stuff on the sidewalks and in the streets. A total cacophony of commerce.
As for the shopping itself, we had a specific list—but also, Alx and Jonathan wanted to show us as many places as possible, because we all knew we’d be back through again from time to time (little did we realize…). So we checked out coffee shops, electronic stores, money changers, housewares stores. Besides having some punjabi-style clothes tailored (plain dress, leggings, and scarves, all in white or nearly so), we also bought a few off-the-rack outfits. As I mentioned, we bought an unlocked cell phone and a pre-paid SIM card for the B’lore area, a hot-pot, some dishes and utensils, towels and linens, and other odds and ends. Cushions for sitting in the temple. Lots of stuff.
Labor is obviously still very cheap there, because in situations where here in the States we might have one person doing the job, there they might have three people—all very eager to please, to bring tea, and to show you everything in the store. Literally, ask to see a sari, and in ten minutes they’ll empty the shelves in front of you.
The labor costs are reflected also in the prices. If something merely takes work—like clothes—it tends to be ridiculously cheap. I got an entire embroidered punjabi outfit for about $20(US). A gorgeous scarf might run $6. If it requires expensive materials, like electronics for example, expect to pay about as much as we do in the States.
About the pricing: I did not see or experience what I would call true bazaar-style haggling. However, if we were in a store for a long time and buying a lot of stuff, especially if it was on the expensive side, we’d try to get a dialog going with the owner. If we were around long enough to be offered tea or chai, we both knew that the merchant was about to score a big deal and we could likely get a 10% discount off the marked prices. Win-win for everybody.
Alx’s travel tip #67: When in a good chat with someone, especially if you are doing business, try to make a point to ask for a business card and the person’s "good name" (their first name). As in, "Excuse me sir, but might I know your good name?" Or, "Thank you, madam, could I have the honor of knowing your good name? And do you have a card?" (Check ankles for bracelets and toes for rings…otherwise, if the woman is young and anklet-less, she’s ‘miss’. Usually, if she’s working in a shop, she’ll be married.) Write it down. Keep the card. Next time you are there, as for that person by name. Save lots of money, have a good shopping experience.
Of the stores we visited, I’d have to say I found Chandni, the deity statue store, to be the most enjoyable and magical. Imagine walking into a small shop crammed into a corner of what used to be a government utility building—and all around you, on every shelf, on tables, on the floor, and hanging from the ceiling, there are Indian deities and divine souls. Ganesh, Laxshmi, Vishnu, Bramha, Kali, Durga, Shiva, Hanuman, Rama, Vinkateshwara, lots of others…and of course, Shirdi Sai Baba.
We were in there for at least two hours, and we got the full-on Welcome Customer treatment. Each of us had our own salesperson showing us things. We were served delicious hot chai. We were told stories about some of the items in the store. One of the reasons we’d gone to this place in particular is that it’s Kaleshwar’s favorite statue shop in all of Bangalore. Being in there, feeling the pervasive energy, I could understand why. I was like being surrounded by divinity, contained within it.
Adding to the fun was the fact that power was out for much of that afternoon, a not uncommon event in India, just about anywhere. In the countryside, power fails for a while just about every single day. So there we are in this dimly-lit shop, buying statues and jewelry and generally being treated like we were the most important customers they’d received all week. Marvelous. After finishing our choices and getting the totals however (minus 10% of course), we couldn’t complete the transaction because they were unable to run our credit cards. With the total running into the tens of thousands of rupis (several hundred dollars US), we really couldn’t go with cash. The remarkable thing is they simply wrapped up our purchases, gave them to us and told us just to come back in a few hours to complete the transactions.
I said to Alx, "Wow, they trust us that much?" She grinned and replied, "They know we’re going to Kaleshwar’s ashram. Would you want that kind of karma? And what would happen when he found out?" My answer was no, emphatically, but neither could I imagine not paying. I was just surprised at the trust engendered solely from a personal second-hand relationship. They knew and loved Kaleshwar; we were his students—therefore we were assumed to be utterly trustworthy. (We did, of course, go back a few hours later and paid for everything. The address is Shop #12, 1st Floor (which in India means 2nd floor to us Westerners), Public Utility Building, MG Road, Bangalore, 560 001.)
So that was shopping. Imagine lots of cramped little shops with linens, housewares, electronics, clothes, etc., and you have the basics of shopping in India. In most cases it’s hard to buy more than you can carry at any given time, unless you’re able to arrange either for a car or for delivery back to one’s hotel.
How about more of the B’lore ambience? I was warned about the smells. I’m sorry to say, often very bad smells. No, not the people… personal cleanliness is a high virtue in India. But if you ever saw standing water, it would be a good idea to give it a wide berth, because there’s a good chance it came from a very bad place indeed. The trucks and rickshaws (the latter of which ran on kerosene) would belch smoke and fumes into the air.
Then there was the noise. A near-constant cacophony of voices, traffic, and horns. I wrote about this in a poem, but relaying it here: The drivers in India communicate extensively and expressively using their horns. At night, they use their lights, too—brights, regular, parking and off. They have to, because the roads are so clogged with trucks, tractor-hauled lorries, vans, SUVs, cars, motorcycles, rickshaws, bicycles and pedestrians, it’s a wonder they can move at all. Volume that would cause utter gridlock here in the States is a normal day for these folks. Painted lines on the streets to indicate lanes are merely a suggestion. There are some traffic lights at the bigger intersections, but even these are rare.
For a few hours late at night, the city grows quiet. Say from about 2am to 5am. But as soon as the city wakes up, so do the horns and a constant dull roar of voices. The Empire Hotel was right across the street from a private school, and we could often hear the kids shouting and laughing on their way to and from there, or out in the walled yards for exercise periods and recess.
The language: Almost everybody there with any education has at least some English. But be prepared for British-isms, because that’s where they got it from. Interesting in an odd way, how even though they’re gone, the British gave India the one thing it had lacked previously: A common language. Of course, this does not mean the speaker is intelligible to the average American listener… I had to say, "Excuse me, could you repeat that?" far more often than I would’ve liked. I imagine I’ll develop a better ear for it in time.
The food: Okay, this was always really good, but possibly because Alx and Jonathan knew the best places to eat. The Bamboo Restaurant in the Museum Inn had fabulous Chinese and Thai food, and not only did we all have a late lunch there one day, Maya, Sage, and I also stopped in for dinner on our way back home (Stephanie was ill that night… more on that later in this travelogue). We also visited the Oberoi Hotel a few times, a super-swanky five-star establishment that simply oozes luxury. It was totally out of our reach for staying there, but the restaurants on site were totally reasonable. For what we’d pay for a cheap dinner at our local Boulder Creek brew-pub, we could have a very nice meal at the Oberoi, and in stunningly gorgeous surroundings. The gardens there are worth the visit alone.
On Thursday, our third and final day in B’lore before leaving for Penukonda, we completed our final shopping. Bought a last few essentials, hit the grocery store for last minute supplies and foodstuffs, gathered all our gear and luggage and crammed it into a pair of huge SUVs. Having worked his connections, Jonathan scored us a couple of the ashram’s own vehicles and drivers. Probably a good idea since there were the six of us, plus a ton of luggage and junk. Along the way out, we stopped at the Commercial Street store where we’d ordered the punjabi outfits made up—and lucky for us, they were all ready.
It took a while to clear the city. Alx kept remarking at how much the roads had been widened and improved in just the year she’d been gone. Apparently a lot of the two-lane roads are being replaced by actual 4-lane highways. Progress…
About halfway to the ashram, we stopped briefly at a roadside convenience store for some drinks and to use the restrooms, then pushed on. Soon after, it was dark—and that was when I learned how drivers use their lights to communicate. They also drive just as crazy, and pass in situations where even I wouldn’t. (And I’m often considered rather wreckless… No way in hell I’ll ever drive in India.)
We drove very fast… often going even faster in the tiny, and obviously very poor villages along the way. We’d been told that there are sometimes brigands along the roads, and that to stop is a very bad idea. Especially the further out from the city you get.
At one point late in the drive, we stopped for gas. Shortly after pulling back onto the road, our driver spotted a fox crossing the road ahead of us. Supposedly this is a very lucky and auspicious thing to happen. I just thought it was pretty cool.
Thus endeth today’s installment. Join us tomorrow for "The Ashram Experience."